Black Diamond Momentum Harness Review: The Best Beginner Buy

Ask ten climbing coaches which harness to buy first, and most will say the same thing: the Black Diamond Momentum. After a month of gym laps and a few multi-pitch outings, it's easy to see why it's endured as the default first harness.

Our verdict

Black Diamond Momentum Harness

Black Diamond

The harness we hand to every new climber. Comfortable, versatile, and impossible to beat at the price.

$65

Check price at REI· $64.95

What worked

• Excellent comfort for the price
• Four adjustable leg loops fit over layers
• Great all-around for gym and crag

What didn't

• Gear loops are a bit soft for trad racks
• Not the lightest option

Weight

12.7 oz

Gear loops

4

Leg loops

Adjustable

Best for

Gym, sport, beginners

Comfort

Pre-shaped foam waistbelt and leg loops spread the load nicely on hangdogging sessions. It's not a specialized big-wall harness, but for the climbing most people do, it's plenty comfortable.

Versatility

The adjustable leg loops let you dial fit over shorts in summer or softshell in winter — a real advantage over fixed-loop designs. Four gear loops handle a sport rack easily.

Verdict

For $65, nothing touches it as an all-around starter. Dedicated trad and alpine climbers will eventually want something more specialized, but most people never will.