Black Diamond Camalot C4 Review: The Default Cam, Reassessed

There is a reason "buy a set of C4s" is the standard answer to "what should my first rack be." Two seasons of placing them on granite and sandstone did not change that answer, but it did soften it.

Our verdict

Black Diamond Camalot C4

Black Diamond

Still the right first rack. If you're weight-conscious or building a specialist alpine kit, shop around before defaulting to it.

$85

Check price at REI· $85

What worked

• Predictable placements and easy to read
• Excellent durability — sling wear is the only failure mode
• Ubiquitous, so partners can rack it blind

What didn't

• Heavier than newer competitors at the same range
• Narrower range than double-axle rivals in small sizes

Weight

124 g (#1)

Range

20.6–34.5 mm (#1)

Strength

14 kN (#1)

Axle

Double

Placing them

The C4 reads clearly. You can see whether the lobes are in the middle of their range from six feet below, which is worth more to a new leader than any spec on this page. The thumb loop is comfortable enough for aid pulls and full-value hangs.

Durability

Ours have taken falls, been dropped, and spent two winters in a damp gear bin. The only wear is on the slings, which are replaceable. Nothing about the mechanism has loosened.

Where it lags

Competitors now hit the same range at meaningfully less weight, and in the small sizes some offer wider expansion. Carrying doubles to a long route, that difference adds up to a real amount of mass on your hip.

Verdict

The default for good reasons. Just know that "default" and "best" have drifted apart.